Aaron Esh, a London-based fashion designer who was named one of the nine finalists of this year’s LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designer, expanded his womenswear-inspired tailoring-focused label to include actual women’s offerings for spring 2024.
During a preview, the designer said the women’s looks felt like a natural extension of his vision for modern dressing, which means that one can embrace both masculinity and femininity regardless of the assigned gender at birth.
“The young-ness, the mixing highbrow elements of traditional luxury with a very specific subculture of East London feels very earnest to me. It relates to the people I met in Paris, and they are worn by the boys and girls from Saint Martins at a party on Saturday night at 4 a.m. in Dalston,” he added.
He counted bubble skirts, draped dresses, a keyhole blouse, a floor-length pencil skirt and an evening dress with “a very unpretentious finish” as highlights this season.
Overall, the collection offered sophisticated pieces that included moleskin tailoring finished with satin shawl-collared lapels, silk shirting with trailing necklines, multiple-pleated trousers, balloon-hemmed tweed coats and deep-pocketed silk bombers.
They looked cool and provocative on men, but more traditional on women. His vision for women probably would appeal more to those who dine at the Connaught after going on a shopping spree on Mount Street, and those who attend Frieze London on the VIP preview day, than the East London late-night party girls who inspired the collection.
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