The London-based American-Chinese designer Chet Lo leaned into his Chinese heritage and personal experience of discovering sexual liberation during his teenage years for spring 2024.
The juxtaposition between Chinese knots — repurposed as thong detailings and see-through tops — and the distorted motif of doggy-style position on knitted tops and dresses resulted in a provocative and fierce collection. The added styling trick with Chinese knots inspired by the art of Japanese rope bondage Shibari further amplified Lo’s message, while his signature stretchy, size-inclusive spiky knits — made with softer and more luscious-looking yarns his season — fit into this narrative as well.
“The theme of the collection is called Haam Sap, which in Cantonese means perverted or naughty. I feel like sexuality in Asian culture shouldn’t be so taboo. It should be completely normalized because sex is normal. Also, who doesn’t love a dress that’s sexy, slutty, and brings you good luck,” Lo said backstage.
A highlight of the collection was the jeans with laser-printed spiky patterns. They are made with Isko’s new innovative material called Ctrl+Z, made entirely from recycled fibers. The spiky shoes, meanwhile, were developed in collaboration with Charles & Keith.
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