Kiminte Kimhekim has always lived in a bit of a dream world with his fanciful designs, and this season it showed more than ever.
Titled “Dreamers,” the South Korean designer played on the idea of both the REM and the idealistic kind, whether one’s head is on the pillow or in the clouds.
First looks of models strategically holding pillows and an apron dress made out of a duvet were a nod to getting a good night’s sleep — on trend with TikTok’s current obsession with “sleepmaxxing” — and pajama looks with slippers transport one into Kim’s world of approaching textiles differently.
He knows his vision is not all that practical, but why not? He playfully paired the looks with clever nods to artistry, such as turning a traditional ammunition belt into a pencil holster. Instead of weapons, Kim fights with his favorite BlackWing graphites.
The South Korean designer always has an unusual eye for materials — he has worked extensively with hair and presented collections centered entirely around bows and pearls. He used these recurring motifs more lightly this season, as braiding over a denim skirt, and used bows and pearls delicate details on accessories and trim on jackets.
He often plays with school uniform codes, this season topped with berets, and he added a pop of baby pink to his mostly monochromatic collection. Trenchcoats were also a key — and more commercial — piece.
Kim is dreamer to be sure, but he is also pragmatic. After opening his flagship in Seoul, the designer had been targeting a retail location in Paris. He has now shifted his focus to opening in Tokyo, where his avant-garde designs have garnered attention.
“To be able to continue my brand, I need to learn about management. It’s always a business,” he said. “But I’m still dreaming to have my spaces all over the world, in all the major cities, so I can share my universe.”
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