During his more than two years at the creative helm of Etro, Marco De Vincenzo experimented with ways around the fashion house’s codes. He either let its rich heritage dominate; or his personal proclivities lead the way. But know it takes two to tango, he seems to have found a balance by grounding Etro’s textile exuberance in sleek silhouettes and a streamlined approach to layering.
Etro’s pre-fall 2025 collection reinforced De Vincenzo’s penchant for what he dubs “maximalist minimalism.” Yet a new confidence seeped in the words and work of the designer, who during a walk-through said he’s on a mission of “simplifying a brand not easy to simplify.
“I’m embracing a lot of the Etro heritage but I don’t want to [succumb] to it,” he said, confessing that Etro’s codes and layering often “confused me, and maybe I didn’t feel them as mine.”
This time, his quest of not being “too claustrophobic” with these elements resulted in a convincing recipe that favored a tonal approach to patterns, immediately readable shapes and a strong focus on daywear, all the while without betraying the ‘70s-rooted, sophisticated spirit of the brand.
Folding urban pragmatism into Etro’s boho nature, he offered coats and suede dresses covered in subdued paisley motifs and featuring leather stitching to create a fitted silhouette; in printed frilled blouses and a series of beautiful chunky sweaters to pair with flared pants; in denim ensembles and stretchy velvet tops covered in brocade patterns, as well as monochrome separates printed or embroidered with delicate flowers.
While the range had a youthful spirit, De Vincenzo tried not to alienate Etro’s long-time loyal customer, who might miss the brand’s more romantic side. To this end, the designer included billowing long dresses in georgette and his own reinterpretation of the boho garment, crafted in jersey for extra ease and practicality.
What is sure to appeal across generations is the brand’s ever-expanding handbag offering. More than anything, De Vincenzo has the merit to have put his expertise in the category – forged by years as consultant for Fendi – at good use, developing appealing designs like the Vela bag and making Etro’s accessory game credible and stronger season after season.
