MILAN — Okhtein is turning 10 and already thinking ahead, setting down the roots of its next decade of growth.
The buzzy Egyptian accessories brand cofounded by sisters Mounaz and Aya Abdelraouf and known for its bold, maximalist handbags, has released a celebratory special collection to mark the milestone, is to open new stores and is plotting its further expansion both product- and retail-wise.
The anniversary collection winks to the brand’s enduring use of sculpted hardware in gold-toned brass in its creations, becoming a hallmark of the label’s rich aesthetic that pays tribute to the architecture of old Cairo. Hence, the founders developed the Gold capsule collection of bags reinterpreting bestsellers and signature styles in golden hues and opulent textures, ranging from ostrich and snake leathers to satin, further embellishing them with studs, crystals and beads.
Designs in the range include iterations of the Bangle clutch, the Mahogany bag, the Malleable shopper and the Mini Duo style, but the Abdelraoufs also introduced two new pieces — the Duo top-handle bag in patent leather and the Soiree mesh style.
The launch of the capsule, which will be available early next month via the brand’s e-commerce, will be flanked by the openings of two Okhtein stores, one at Dubai’s City Walk this month and one to be unveiled in Riyadh’s Kingdom Mall by the end of the year.
These units will add to the brand’s main flagship opened in Cairo in 2020, when, following the COVID-19 outbreak, the company decided to rationalize its wholesale presence in favor of a more direct-to-consumer approach.
“We needed a break and, in a way, the pandemic was the best thing that ever happened because we refocused our energies,” said Mohamed Abdelraouf, the founders’ brother and chief executive officer of the brand. He underscored that if the Okhtein business was 55 percent direct-to-consumer when he joined the company in 2018, now that share has reached 95 percent.
After working with a French-Lebanese architectural studio for 18 months to build the retail concept and identity, the Abdelraoufs unveiled the Cairo unit, which is internally called “the lab, because it’s where we learn,” said the CEO.
Along with lessons on how to manage full operations directly, the store served as the blueprint for the interior design of its new outposts, which will be further enriched via collaborations with Egyptian and local artists, encompassing artworks, design pieces and furniture.
In particular, the Dubai store will evoke “a massive living room to offer the full social experience” in sync with local customs, teased the CEO, as he mentioned that the focal point of the space will be a central sofa where women will be able to spend time chatting, having a coffee and also show off their looks. In Riyadh, the same experience will be offered in a private room.
If in the wholesale channel the company will keep a very selective approach aimed at building stronger relationships with key retailers — currently led by Ounass — the overall expansion plan for distribution going forward will focus on the Gulf Cooperation Council area and Europe.
The strengthening of Okhtein’s presence in the former is considered “a natural move” by Abdelraouf. “We see a low-hanging fruit in the GCC, and we want to consolidate there before [the market] is oversaturated. All brands are now trying to speak the Middle Eastern language, but for us is natural,” he said.
Placing the brand in Europe is more strategic in terms of brand awareness and positioning. “Sales might come more from the U.S. than Europe but we want to tell our story from here. Our product is Italy-based, most of our items are made here. We want to make sure we tell our story even before opening stores, also because we don’t feel that kind of pressure,” said Abdelraouf.
The strategy is in sync with the one embraced by parent company Alsara Group, whose holdings include the likes of the Akoni, Khrisjoy, Retori and Azza Fahmy brands. To be sure, Bidayat, a subsidiary of the Alsara Investment Group founded by Mayhoola for Investments CEO Rachid Mohamed Rachid, took a significant minority stake in Okhtein in 2021.
As Alsara is trying to make Milan its home and perfecting its combination of established houses and emerging talents, Okhtein has also strengthened its position in Italy, moving its presentations from Paris to Milan, for one. Ditto for production, with Mounaz Abdelraouf praising Italian companies for their expertise in leather and for being family-oriented, therefore attuned with Okhtein’s approach and narrative.
It’s also part of a brand elevation the founders are working on via product, category expansion and collaborations, including the one with Balmain last year.
After stretching from bags, small leather goods and belts to eyewear in 2019, in 2023 the brand tiptoed into jewelry, a long-time passion of the sister duo.
“Jewelry is my core: it’s memory-based, has a sentimental value and it was a natural fit,” said Mounaz Abdelraouf, underscoring that Okhtein’s bags have been jewelry-based since the beginning with their sculptural handles and opulent details.
The dedicated jewelry line crafted from 18-karat gold and gemstones now elevates the perception of the brand overall, making it easier for customers to digest the increased price point of its leather goods, too.
“Jewelry was introduced to show our potential,” said the cofounder, pointing to some key designs, including bracelets and rings inspired by snakes or reprising Okhtein’s arrow logo that points in two opposite directions and symbolizes the different personalities of the sisters. For example, the Sister Charm line comes with cone-shaped tips encrusted with colored diamonds that could be mixed and matched to personalize bracelets to gift to family and friends.
The entry price for Okhtein jewelry is around 900 euros, but the average price tag is between 2,000 euros and 3,000 euros going up to 10,000 euros for the most opulent necklaces.
The new jewelry collection will launch in times for the holiday season in December and will be available in all the brand’s stores, before eventually dropping online next year. Abdelraouf teased a collaboration might be in the pipeline, too, as she considers tie-ups, the future of brands and strategy to tap into different markets.
Yet next up the plan is to complete the Okhtein look with incursions into ready-to-wear. This mirrors the ultimate mission of having a firmly established brand with global recognition, said the cofounder.
“We want to own the evening look,” echoed her brother, while keeping a more cautious approach and highlighting that the company will focus on building its existing categories before eyeing further expansion in apparel and footwear.
Since joining the company, the CEO has revamped the company’s structure, balancing the personalities of the sister duo by splitting their roles to enhance their personality and inclination. As result, Mounaz focuses more on product development while her more social media-savvy sister Aya oversees marketing plans and activities.
“I see my role as the one empowering them, which could also be perceived as unusual in the Arab world, where you expect the man [on the frontline],” said the CEO.
Challenging perceptions and fighting global stereotypes has always been the engine of Okthein, which was launched in 2014 not only to celebrate Egyptian heritage and local craftmanship but also to affirm and spotlight modern, cultured and fashion-forward Arab women. With its distinctive, maximalist viewpoint, Okhtein quickly started to resonate both locally and internationally, attracting a global audience as well as a roster of celebrities ranging from Emma Watson to Beyoncé and Cardi B.