Roksanda Ilincic took to the skies once again, showing a collection filled with offbeat color combinations and oversized proportions on the 17th floor of Space House, the refurbished 1960s show venue in Covent Garden that has spectacular views – when it’s not so cloudy.
She drew inspiration from the late artist and sculptor Phyllida Barlow, who worked leftover, everyday materials such as cardboard, fabric, plywood and plaster into her large-scale works. In this age of sustainable fashion, and a make-do-and-mend mentality, especially among young people, Ilincic was spot on trend.
The designer rooted around her studio and used leftover materials, mainly from her spring 2023 collection, to create the sculptural, abstract looks in the show’s finale.. Deadstock included melton wool (which she uses to line the inside collars of coats), paper, raffia, viscose and big, stiff squares of sponge.
Skirts and tops fashioned from those floppy sponge panels seemed to float around the models’ waists and necks, while ragged-edged fil coupe dresses, coats and tunic tops looked as if they were made from Silly String.
Ilincic said she left those colorful fil coupe threads “free and loose” so they could fall in all different ways and create different types of sculpture “on their own.”
The main collection had a similarly arty feel, with standout pieces including a sheer, floaty gown that was a patchwork of lavender, yellow and cornflower blue; and a lineup of lovely pink dresses, some of which were painted.
Not all of the looks had such a light touch.
Some of Ilincic’s collaged creations were heavy-handed, including the dresses, headpieces and long belts made from layers of giant sequins that rustled as models walked. Oversized jackets with sheer black panels, and a fuzzy-backed coat, swamped the women wearing them, and looked almost comical at times.
Those outsized proportions were more suited to the art – or sculpture – gallery, and will need a few tweaks before they hit the shop floor.
